Ang Huling Maleldo ni Tatay Ruben | Photo Essay by Arriana Santos
Mata Asia Press Photo
San Fernando, Pampanga is one of the places to visit during Good Friday. Locals, tourists from the Philippines, and even international tourists flock to the province’s capital to witness people during their panata.
Maleldo is the Kapampangan word for Holy Week. During this time, thousands of penitents self-flagellate while roaming around the streets of San Fernando, ending their tradition with a prayer in front of the San Fernando Cathedral. Most walk barefoot, with a crown of thorns on their heads, under the scorching heat of the sun while they slash and let their backs bleed. This year, nine penitents were crucified in Cutud as part of the local tradition.
Ruben Enaje, a 62-year old sign painter from San Fernando, is a key figure in Cutud’s Lenten tradition. Aside from his daily job of painting signages for politicians and companies, Enaje is known as Cutud’s local “Kristo” during their Passion of Christ reenactment every Good Friday. He has been crucified 34 times since his first crucifixion in 1986, only skipping three years due to pandemic.
However, Tatay Ruben revealed that his Maleldo might be his last one.
Tetelestai. It is finished.
More than a thousand locals and tourists witness the different Good Friday panatas done in front of the San Fernando Cathedral. Penitents often carry their own crosses, self-flagellate, and are crucified as part of San Fernando’s Maleldo or Lenten tradition. (April 7, 2023)The Magdarame are self-flagellating penitents who use bundled wooden bamboo sticks in order to slash their backs and make them bleed. Together with them are those who assist them throughout their panata, such as their wives, children, relatives, and friends. (April 7, 2023)After walking along the streets of San Fernando, the magdarame ends their panata by lying on their stomachs while they are struck with the bundled bamboo sticks, long wooden sticks, or even stepped on. They conclude their act by kneeling in front of the cathedral while reciting their prayers of forgiveness and wishes. (April 7, 2023)After praying, devotees offer the crowns they wear during their panata on the façade of the cathedral. This symbolizes the end of their Good Friday panata. (April 7, 2023)Another part of San Fernando’s Maleldo is Brgy. Juliana’s annual Tira Bakal. This performance portrays the Passion of Christ by having a Kristo carry the cross while Roman soldiers push him to the ground or strike him with a piece of wood or metal. Spectators line the streets in order to watch this nerve-wracking panata. (April 7, 2023)Penitents were nailed to the cross at Brgy. Sta. Lucia’s crucifixion site during Good Friday. This marks the end of the Senakulo performance of the barangay. Several medics and barangay officials are present during the event to ensure the safety of the performers and even the audience. (April 7, 2023)After the crucifixion tradition, the crowd took photos near the cross on the man-made hill at the Sta. Lucia crucifixion site. (April 7, 2023)More than 15,000 locals and tourists endure the heat of the sun in order to witness the crucifixion tradition at the Cutud crucifixion site. People join the group from the Senakulo performance along the streets up to the hill at Cutud for the crucifixion. (April 7, 2023)Nine penitents accomplish their panata of crucifixion at the Cutud crucifixion site. They are nailed to the cross one by one under the scorching heat of the sun on Good Friday. Not everyone is allowed to be crucified; local officials interview those who want to join the Lenten rites in order to know their backgrounds and reasons. (April 7, 2023)According to Ruben Enaje, 62, each one of them is required to have their own nails to be used during the crucifixion rites in order to maintain hygiene and cleanliness. This was instructed to them by a previous San Fernando City mayor who was a doctor. (April 29, 2023)Tatay Ruben shows the costume he uses during his panata. He became Cutud’s local Kristo after he promised God that he was willing to be crucified for nine years to show his thanksgiving after he was kept safe from an accident involving him falling down from the third floor of a building he was painting. His nine-year panata was extended due to various circumstances such as his daughter being in a critical state during her labor and his wife’s illness. (April 29, 2023)His brother, a welder, crafted the stainless-steel nails he had been using for 20 years. He keeps his nail in a jar filled with alcohol to maintain its rust-free appearance. (April 29, 2023)Apu Ruben, which means Grandfather Ruben in Kapampangan, spends his free time with his children and grandchildren who live nearby. The kids sell freshly picked mangoes from the mango tree near their house whenever they are in season. (April 29, 2023)Every time he is crucified, Tatay Ruben has his wishes: good health for his family, more job opportunities, and this year, for the war between Russia and Ukraine to be over. He shared that his panata blessed him with his own business. (April 29, 2023)Beyond the Good Friday tradition, Tatay Ruben paints signages for a living. Through the years, he was able to own a land, build a house for his family, and even own a motorcycle which he believes are blessings from God. (April 29, 2023)Before, Tatay Ruben used to paint signages for Coca-Cola as a worker. Now, brands and government officials commission him to paint huge signages. These projects, ranging from hundreds to thousands of pesos, help him cover his expenses. (April 29, 2023).Despite being crucified, Tatay Ruben revealed that a day after the Good Friday tradition, he was able to paint again. He added that he has more than 20 signages lined up for the month of April. (April 29, 2023)After being crucified for 34 times, Tatay Ruben shared that he is uncertain of what lies ahead. He said that his body may be weak for the next Maleldo. However, officials ask him to continue his role until they find a replacement for him. Noting the possibility of ending his panata, Tatay Ruben shared that he would be more than willing to guide Cutud’s next Kristo. But as of now, Tatay Ruben believes that it is finished. Tetelestai. (April 29, 2023)
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